Plague Marines

Plague Marines

No Traitor Legion stands as high in Nurgle’s favour as the Death Guard. Swollen with the Plague God’s blessings and utterly devoted to the corruption of realspace in his name, the hulking Plague Marines that comprise their mainstay despoil all in their path while chanting praise to their gruesome patron.

Plague Marines

The Champion



A strong core of reliable and adaptable warriors that can lay down fire while advancing or holding down terrain is an invaluable aid to any tactician. In the case of strike forces bolstered by Primaris battle-brothers, this role is fulfilled by the Intercessor Squads.


Intercessor Sergeant





Tactical Squad

Tactical Sergeant
More to follow

Streetlight diorama

Streetlight diorama



I was recently contacted and asked to make a street light as a bolt on to a clients existing diorama . The street light is made from 6 mm foam board strips, the centres sanded out for the LED’s cable. I glued the two strips together, sanded it down giving it shape. Repeating the same process with corner and the lights neck. A small piece of foam cut for the light cover and using a small plastic tube to complete the street light.








I have also been asked to make a removable base for the light. Using both 6 & 10 mm foam boards, glued together and paving stones etched in the foam with a cable run drilled through the foam. I might redo this base to make sure the light fits slots into it more securely.






I decided in the end to completely remake the base, I was just not happy with it.  The new one is double the size of the original with a hole big enough for the streetlight to sit securely in it with a cable run drilled in between the two layers of foam board.  Pavement flags and curb stones where etched into the board, then damage was applied to the flags.






Satisfied with how this turned out, I applied the first coat of paint to the streetlight and base.





When the base coat had dried I went over the paving slabs with a light blue/grey, the curb using a light grey.  Taking a fine brush I painted in between each slab and crack with a dark brown.  I dry brushed a dark grey over all the cracks, the tarmac at the back and the edges of the curb.  Using a thin brush to dab black into all of the cracks, dry brushed black over the tarmac at the back, dry brushed white over each of the paving slabs to complete the base of this piece.

While this was drying I turned my attention onto the lamppost, painting the bottom and the neck join using the light blue grey, then the rest of it with a light brown, with a coat of metallic silver cover it.

After it had dried, I was not overly happy with how it looked so I mixed up a lighter brown and went back over it.  While it was still wet I added a light coat of white and blended it in.  

I turned my attention back to the base and dry brushed white across the entire surface and edges, the effect I have to say I am rather proud with how it turned out!

Turning back to the lamppost I dry brushed a light grey over the body and neck, followed by white then finishing dry brushing black over the entire post.


With lamppost finished, I have put both pieces together and here it is.  I will be putting up my usual final pictures soon.

Commissioned Church Ruin

Commissioned Church Ruin



After completing the last Church Ruin I was asked to build another. As you can see I’ve started work on the outer walls and floor.





 As you can see I have marked out the tall windows, the door and the brick work on floor and back wall.





The long windows, where cut out and sanded down using my rotary tool, the doorway was also removed.  A piece of 6mm black foam board was cut for the archway to the door.


Left Wall

As with the previous Church Ruin diorama I made, I cut a piece of 6 mm foam board to fit over the wall and then cut out three arches which will house the three tall windows. I cut a couple of 10″ x 1″ strips of 6 mm to go either side of the window, 1″ x 1″ brick work were etched into these strips before applying damage to them. All the pieces were glued to together before cutting the top down as I did in the previous model.


Back Wall

The back wall as with the former I etched in 1″ x 1″ brick work  before marking and cutting the top of the wall off as I did before.  Like the before all the broken pieces will be reused as rubble for the final piece.



Right Wall

The right wall I have built it similar to it’s predecessor, using a combination of 10mm and 6mm foam board.  I marked out and carved 1″ x 1″ brick work on this wall.  Glued a 1″ x 8″ pelmet over the door which I will be taking my rotary tool too like, marking out 2 x 0.2″ top and bottom border.  Taking a sharp knife I removed pieces from the top corners which will be used as rubble to scatter round this piece, damage was applied to the brick work similar to the last piece.



The Floor

With the floor I marked out slabs of 3″ x 4″.  I then stuck a piece of 6 mm black foam board 3.5″ x 8″, glued it down to the far right corner.  This is to be the entrance to the room, I carved out 2″ x 3″ slabs on it.

Church Ruin

Church Ruin


After spending the past couple of months doing nothing but Doctor Who sets, I thought it was about time to do something different.  This series of dioramas I wanted to a quick, simple but effective models which can be used for any five inch or bigger figures.  


To start this series off I have gone with a room in a ruined church, using the same basic size as my Apartment Room 2 diorama I did last year.  To start I cut a the base piece of foam board 8″ x 15″, then starting with the left wall I cut a piece 8″ x 11.5″.  I wanted this to be a tall medieval window, I marked out three tall long windows and then cut them out.  Taking some black 6 mm foam board I cut a piece out to match the display size of the last the piece, marked out three arches that would go round each of the three windows and glued that onto the first piece.  Two long strips of 10″ x 1″ where then glued to either side of this wall, brick work was then carved into these two pieces.  To give it the ruined look, I marked out where I wanted to cut pieces out, cut into the foam and then ripped out the unwanted pieces.





The middle wall was done but cutting a piece of 10 mm foam foam board to 11″ x 15″, marking out each brick as 1″ x 1″, carving them out then putting in cracks in the bricks, weathering them before taking big chunks out of the top of the wall like I did with the window.





With the floor I marked out slabs of 3″ x 4″ then treated them as I did with the middle wall.  I then stuck a piece of 6 mm black foam board 2.5″ x 8″, glued it down to the far right corner.  This is to be the entrance to the room, I carved out 2″ x 2.5″ slabs on it and then weathered this to match the other.





The right wall I cut out an arched door and like the window opposite, using a piece of black 6 mm foam board I cut out an arch way to go around the door.  I marked out and carved 1″ x 1″ brick work on this wall.  Glued a 1″ x 8″ pelmet over the door, marking out 2 x 0.2″ top and bottom border, taking my rotary tool and sanded out the middle.  This wall like the others I cut out chunks of the wall to give it the ruined effect.





Using the cut away sections from the walls, I have placed them around this diorama to add to the ruined effect.





I cut a couple pieces of bolsa wood to used for the doorway, marking out and scoring in slates of wood.  Using a wooden coffee stirrer, I cut it up and used it to make the door hinges.



First coat of paint has been applied, a light grey/brown acrylic mix has been used to cover the entire of the inside of the scene.  A dark brown for the inside of the door.








Waiting on a delivery of magnetic tape, it was time to start painting this. A base coat of a light grey mixed with a little brown over the entire dio. Brown for the base coat of the door.

When it dried, a second coat added to exposed first layer of foam board walls. A darker grey was used on the floor, large wall and the side walls 2nd and 3rd foam board layers. Dark brown wash over the floor and areas of the walls for weathering.





The magnets are in place to hold the walls in together. I’ve used magnetic strip for the bottom of the walls and small magnets placed into the corners to keep the walls together.





For the door I have made a door handle, two bolts and rivets for the hinges out of green stuff. When it has cured I’ve given them a coat of black gloss and when dry I will age them.

To add to the scene I have scattered small piles of scenic ballast around floor.





 I went over the black gloss and the ballast with a light grey wash to weather them and match the surroundings.  With all of this done, this diorama is now complete.








Finished piece

Here are a few extra pictures showing that this diorama can be used for multiple action figure genre’s.







4th Doctor’s Secondary control room 

4th Doctor’s Secondary control room 

When I exhibited for the Bradford Science Festival I had printed off a lot of printable Doctor Who sets from AFT Downloads for people to cut out and make their own Doctor Who diorama.  I had a few of these spare and  make them up and use them for my daughter to play with using them on Plastic Action page.

This set is taken from the Classic Doctor Who episode The Masque of Mandragora – The Robots of Death





This set is incomplete at the moment, I still need to cut out and set up the rails around the center console.





To complete this diorama, I cut out a couple of foam board circles ( a 10 mm and 5 mm) and glued them together and placed the center console platform over them.  Then I cut out the railings fitting them into the platform and through the foam.  I  stuck four pieces of card board to the underside of the floor to strengthen the card, trimmed the floor to the precise size to fit the walls onto, taping the walls to the floor, gluing the stairs to the floor and completing this diorama.

Remembrance of the Daleks

Remembrance of the Daleks

When I exhibited for the Bradford Science Festival I had printed off a lot of printable Doctor Who sets from AFT Downloads for people to cut out and make their own Doctor Who diorama.  I had a few of these spare and  make them up and use them for my daughter to play with using them on Plastic Action page.

This set is taken from the Classic Doctor Who episode Remembrance of the Daleks featuring the 7th Doctor played by Sylvester McCoy.  This is the episode where you first see a Dalek levitate upstairs!


The School

The school is made up using printed off decals which I have stuck onto card and for the larger wall, I have used a couple of pieces of cardboard.


The Hand of Omega

The Hand of Omega and the Dalek Transmat platform where cut out and glued together without backing them onto card.  The Transmat is sturdy enough to take the weight of a Dalek.





Dalek Shuttle

The Dalek Shuttle took a little longer to build, each of the smaller pods was broken into a top and bottom and the main pod was broken into four different sections.  Each one having to be cut out and stuck together either by glue or sticky tape.  If you print this out, I recommend using a laser printer and a lot of patience!




Action Pictures

80’s Tardis


1980’s Tardis Interior

The task I assigned myself this weekend while attending the Bradford Science Festival was to build an 80’s Tardis interior from the days of the 5th Doctor Who Peter Davison and Colin Baker.  



Building the Tardis

This build will mainly be done using 5mm insulation board but instead of using 10mm board to mount it on, I am using sheets of cardboard instead.  This is to show people that they can use basic materials found around the home, than having to purchase foam board.

Using a compass to mark the Round Things on two of the foam boards, using a fine point scalpel to cut each circle out.  I took my rotary tool to carefully sand out the bevels and tidy up the edges.  I used an engraver to soften the edges around each hole.





The third wall  3″x 3.5″  rectangle was cut for the monitor, and pairs of cardboard strips where placed either side of the screen.





Each piece of foam where then glued to a piece of cardboard, strips of foam board were cut and shaped into the edges of each of the walls. An A3 piece of 5mm foam board is being used as the base for this diorama. 





Starting to Paint the Interior

With the pieces in place it is now time to paint this build.  Mixing up a light blue/grey and spread it over the entire diorama using a sponge.









Once the this had dried, I used my airbrush to apply the second coat of paint.

Unfortunately the second coat did not dry in time before the close of the festival, I will be finishing this build of over the course of this week.


I was not happy with the shade of grey the last paint job finished at, mixing up a very light shade of grey I repainted the entire model again.

When that had dried and much happier to how it was, I mixed up a light shade of yellow and using my airbrush I painted all of the round things.





I may end up by going over these again using a paint brush and thicker paint.  Using my airbrush and watering the paint down, it has had a bit of a reaction with the cardboard back.  As you can see, you can start to see the corrugated cardboard which is in between the cardboard.  Still when you stand it together with a console and a figure is starting to look like a 80’s Tardis.


For the central console I used 5 mm foam board that you can buy from any art shop, using the a template that I had printed from AFT Downloads 1980’s Tardis interiors.  I cut each upper and lower panel, top and bottom hexagonal panels, a larger hexagonal piece to sit at the core of the console.  Each console panel had their inside corners cut to an angle, making each piece corners fit together and glued together.  With the lower half made, this was glued onto the larger hexagonal piece and sanded down.





I repeated the same process for the top of the console, but before I glued it to the rest of the base.  I marked out each console and monitor that the 1980’s style console had.  When I was researching pictures of this console, I had noticed with this particular console, all the monitors, keyboards, switches were sunk into the console unlike previous versions.  





To achieve this look, I took my exacto knife and carefully sliced each piece, scoring the top, then cutting the sides and base.  With this done, I pushed each part through then using hot glue, I glued the bottom of each sunken panel to the inside.   This section was then glued to the lower part, sanded down to remove any imperfections before moving on.  I cut made the two monitors with card, folding them round to make monitors and then gluing them on to the main console.  I cut a second hexagonal piece, cut a circle out of the middle and then sanded down the sides to fit the central column onto.  





With this done, it was time to make the stand the console sat on, cutting six pieces of black foam, trimming and sanding each of the inner sides.  These were then glued to the bottom hexagonal piece.





I applied the first coat of paint which when it dried, I found it was too dark to which the second coat I made was a lighter grey and when dried it looked how I wanted it to.   With the embedded consoles, I painted each one a dark grey, monitors a combination of black, yellow and blue.  Due to the size of the center console I painted on each button and slider with a combination of red, blue, yellow, silver, gold and white.





For the consoles stand and rim I decided to use the decals from AFT Downloads  80’s Tardis, since I had made it to the same scale as their’s and didn’t want to make it any thicker than what it is by adding a layer of card or foam board.    The control column is made from a clear toothpick container and decal from the AFT Downloads





With the console finished I went back to the round things and using my airbrush, went over the insides with a light yellow to soften the already well rings.






Finishing Touches

I had been looking at the “round things” and the yellow wasn’t working for me.  I decided to grey them out, then applied a lemon yellow to them, when that had dried a white coat was then added.  To  keep the center console in place, I cut down a toilet roll and glued it onto the floor to which the console will sit over.




I trimmed the base to size that fits the shape of the walls, three borders were cut and stuck to edges to hold the walls in place because I have made this diorama to collapse and painted the edges black.  I used a decal for the monitor which now completes my latest diorama.


Final Pictures

July 2018

Bradford Science Festival Weekend


Friday set up

Having arrived at the Science Museum earlier today, I was taken to the room where I would holding my workshops for the next couple of days.


















After I finished setting up, I went for a wonder around the museum and look what I came across.








1st Day

It’s been a fantastic first day at the Science Festival, met loads of lovely people who were very interested in my work. Before the event started I was able to explore parts that I had missed the day before and came across Davros and his Dalek horde.

By mid morning I was half way through my 80’s Tardis build, I had hoped by the lunchtime I would be able to start painting it.  Unfortunately that had not happened, the build had taken longer than I had hoped.








2nd Day

The 2nd and final day of the Bradford Science Festival. It went so fast but enjoyed every moment of it, even down to getting my arm painted!





My Tardis diorama, I was able to finish the build and complete the base coats of the walls and floor. Unfortunately by the time the paint had dried, the festival was coming to close at the museum. I will be finishing it off in my own time next week.

You can follow the rest of this diorama completion by clicking this link


Thank you to all staff, I’ve had a wonderful time and everyone was very friendly and helpful.