Sewer

Sewer

I’ve been commissioned to build a sewer diorama to accommodate his Marvel Legends 6″ figures.

Build

With this diorama build I will be constructing it out of foam insulation board  using widths 5 mm and 10 mm.  For the overall base I am using 10 mm foam board 25″ width by 16″ depth.   Two walkways on either side running the length of the diorama, one side with the width of 4″ and the opposite 3″ width.  A central wall at one end with a semi circle cut out to act as a grate fitted between the two walkways with a couple of little walls either side.

For the center I am thinking of using a couple of sheets of ripple water purchased from Greenstuffworld, it’s the same sheet’s I used for G.I. JOE Tiger Force Outpost diorama.  I have some left over from my Stargate diorama which I have used to test.

 

 

With the basic form there I started to build upon the structure, building two walls and a second layer for both walkways.  With these parts cut it is time to mark up the brick work.

 

 I cut a crescent a half an inch width to go over the central column, I then marked on the brick work, each brick is 2″ x 1″.  Once completed I took an etching tool a scored out each brick and crack.  After completing the walls and central column I repeated the process on the two walkways.

 

 

I made a trench running the width of the 4″ walkway and then taking my rotary I cut off a section of piping to use as a drain pipe coming out of the wall above the trench.  I then used 5 straws, cutting them down in length to use as bars from the drain.

 

Water sheets have arrived, I’ve loosely put them into place and now toying with the idea of using some blue foam board as a base.  

 

At the request of my client, I built a third a wall but this one containing a circle entrance.  This wall running the in parallel to other long wall, the circle cut is about 5″ diameter.    I scored in the brick work to match up with the rest of diorama.  I cut a ring of foam  as a frame for this entrance etching stone work to it.

Magnetic strip has been used to attach the walls to the floor.

 

Using my rotary tool I sanded the inside of the round doorway, tidied up the edges of the overall piece.  To attach the central column to the back wall using small magnets placed along the edges and married to the magnets on the back wall.  I purchased a small ladder made from bolsa wood, I thought it would be ideal for this piece.

 

 

 Painting

With the build completed, it is time to start painting.  The base coat for the walls and floor were applied using a watered done mixture of white/black and touch of blue, applied using a sponge.  The base I used watered down mixture of blue/white, once this had dried I added Burnt Umber into the mix and dabbed into the area where the water runs trough the center.

 

 

With the base coats dry, sponged over the walls with a water downed burnt umber, dabbing the paint all over.  Adding a little yellow to the watered down burnt umber I repeated the process once the walls had dried.  The bars were painted with Games Workshops Runefang steel, shaded with Nuln Oil.

I turned my attention to the water, using Games Workshops Nurgle’s Rot (commonly known as snot in pot) painted ripples onto the board.  I laid the water sheet on top and glued it into place.  I dry brushed screaming skull over the water sheets highlighting the ripples.

All some brick work was dry brushed using Games Workshops Longbeard Grey, emphasizing all the cracks and edges of the bricks.  The waste pipe and the ladder had a coat of Games Workshops Leadbelcher, shaded with Nuln Oil and highlighted with Stormhost Silver.

 

A couple of days ago I filled the small trench with PVA glue, when it dried I had created film over the trench which meant I could then apply more PVA glue over the top.  The thickness of the dried glue, gave the impression of fluid running the length of the trench, I painted over it using Games Workshops Nurgle’s rot.  I poured PVA into the small waste pipe above the trench, painting it again with Nurgle’s rot once it had dried.  I proceeded  to apply the paint also to areas on both walkways and the small waste pipe.

 

There are some final little touches to be done and then this will be completed.

Blade Runner 2049 Final Scene

Blade Runner 2049 Final Scene

Commission the Idea

I have commissioned to build a scene from the recent Blade Runner 2049 film, I opted to go for the final scene where the two Blade Runners approach the steps leading into the building where Decker’s daughter is placed.

Build

With this diorama build I will be constructing it out of foam insulation board  using widths 5 mm and 10 mm.  For the overall base I am using 10 mm foam board 23″ width by 10″ depth.  Each of the steps are 16″ width by a decreasing inch depth for every step.

I cut four pieces of 10 mm foam board, which were used for the sides of the steps.  I cut another piece of 10 mm board, this is used for the back wall behind the steps.

 

 

 

All the pieces where sanded down and glued together.  The next step is make the banisters for the steps.

Before I start work on the banisters I filled in some of the imperfections of the build using Green Stuff.

To create the banisters I cut thin 0.25 of an inch width foam board strips to run up the center of each banister and along the wall at the top of the each.  I then cut six small posts of foam then using the hot end of my glue gun,

(WARNING wear protective gloves in case you burn your fingers!) 

to burn two holes, equal distance apart in the foam to fit the banister rails through.  Then taking two straws of equal length, adding a drop of hot glue inside one end of each straw, placing a cocktail stick in between and push the glued end together.  Repeat this process to make the second handrail of the same length.  Glued the first post at the bottom of the banister, another one at the top of the slope and then slide the hand rails through the holes.  I took a third post, glued the end of the railings to the post and then glued the post to the top of the banister.  I then glued the last two posts of either end of the small then glued two straws into place.

 

 

I repeated the same process with the opposite side hand rails, thus completing this diorama build.  Next step is to start painting this.

A base acrylic coat of paint made up from white, black and a touch of burnt umber mixed with water was applied with a sponge coating the entire model.

Second base coat added, once this is dry I can start layering this.

With the base coat dried, I could start weathering this piece using my airbrush.  Using a fine spray I went over all the edges with a dark brown, with that dry I gently sprayed over the entire model.

 

 

Using Games Workshop’s Longbearbeard Grey, I dry brushed the all stone work to pick out the detail

 

At the request of my client, I painted the hand rails white. When they are dried I will weather down and dry brush them using GW’s Necron compound.

 

I weathered the handrails with a dark brown wash using my airbrush, once that had dried I dry brushed both handrails using GW’s Necron compound.

 

Final Pictures

With this diorama completed here are my final pictures.  Sorry I do not own any Blade Runner figures, I’ve had to substitute them for 1966 Batman, which works just as well I think.

 

 

 

Streetlight diorama

Streetlight diorama

 

Building

I was recently contacted and asked to make a street light as a bolt on to a clients existing diorama . The street light is made from 6 mm foam board strips, the centres sanded out for the LED’s cable. I glued the two strips together, sanded it down giving it shape. Repeating the same process with corner and the lights neck. A small piece of foam cut for the light cover and using a small plastic tube to complete the street light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have also been asked to make a removable base for the light. Using both 6 & 10 mm foam boards, glued together and paving stones etched in the foam with a cable run drilled through the foam. I might redo this base to make sure the light fits slots into it more securely.

 

 

 

 

Rebuild

I decided in the end to completely remake the base, I was just not happy with it.  The new one is double the size of the original with a hole big enough for the streetlight to sit securely in it with a cable run drilled in between the two layers of foam board.  Pavement flags and curb stones where etched into the board, then damage was applied to the flags.

 

 

 

 

Painting

Satisfied with how this turned out, I applied the first coat of paint to the streetlight and base.

 

 

 

 

When the base coat had dried I went over the paving slabs with a light blue/grey, the curb using a light grey.  Taking a fine brush I painted in between each slab and crack with a dark brown.  I dry brushed a dark grey over all the cracks, the tarmac at the back and the edges of the curb.  Using a thin brush to dab black into all of the cracks, dry brushed black over the tarmac at the back, dry brushed white over each of the paving slabs to complete the base of this piece.

While this was drying I turned my attention onto the lamppost, painting the bottom and the neck join using the light blue grey, then the rest of it with a light brown, with a coat of metallic silver cover it.

After it had dried, I was not overly happy with how it looked so I mixed up a lighter brown and went back over it.  While it was still wet I added a light coat of white and blended it in.  

I turned my attention back to the base and dry brushed white across the entire surface and edges, the effect I have to say I am rather proud with how it turned out!

Turning back to the lamppost I dry brushed a light grey over the body and neck, followed by white then finishing dry brushing black over the entire post.

Completed

With lamppost finished, I have put both pieces together and here it is.  I will be putting up my usual final pictures soon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Final pictures of my Streetlight Diorama, the LED works a treat.

 

 

 

Commissioned Church Ruin

Commissioned Church Ruin

 

Building

After completing the last Church Ruin I was asked to build another. As you can see I’ve started work on the outer walls and floor.

 

 

 

 

 As you can see I have marked out the tall windows, the door and the brick work on floor and back wall.

 

 

 

 

The long windows, where cut out and sanded down using my rotary tool, the doorway was also removed.  A piece of 6mm black foam board was cut for the archway to the door.

 

Left Wall

As with the previous Church Ruin diorama I made, I cut a piece of 6 mm foam board to fit over the wall and then cut out three arches which will house the three tall windows. I cut a couple of 10″ x 1″ strips of 6 mm to go either side of the window, 1″ x 1″ brick work were etched into these strips before applying damage to them. All the pieces were glued to together before cutting the top down as I did in the previous model.

 

Back Wall

The back wall as with the former I etched in 1″ x 1″ brick work  before marking and cutting the top of the wall off as I did before.  Like the before all the broken pieces will be reused as rubble for the final piece.

 

 

Right Wall

The right wall I have built it similar to it’s predecessor, using a combination of 10mm and 6mm foam board.  I marked out and carved 1″ x 1″ brick work on this wall.  Glued a 1″ x 8″ pelmet over the door which I will be taking my rotary tool too like, marking out 2 x 0.2″ top and bottom border.  Taking a sharp knife I removed pieces from the top corners which will be used as rubble to scatter round this piece, damage was applied to the brick work similar to the last piece.

 

 

The Floor

With the floor I marked out slabs of 3″ x 4″.  I then stuck a piece of 6 mm black foam board 3.5″ x 8″, glued it down to the far right corner.  This is to be the entrance to the room, I carved out 2″ x 3″ slabs on it.

 

 

 

 

Detail

With the overall structure work done, it is time to start adding in detail to this diorama.  Taking a pottery tool and scoring into the foam as I have done previously before, creating cracks and chips on the stone work.  The centre of the pelmet above the door was removed

 

Once this was accomplished I have applied magnetic strip along the length and width of the floor and the walls to hold the diorama in place.

 

Using my rotary tool with the sanding attachment I went around the edges of the three long windows and frame to remove all square edges. With the final wall finished and attached to the other surfaces using magnetic tape, it was time to work on the wooden door.

Cutting a couple of pieces of bolsa wood to size then sanding it down, I marked the wooden beans that make up the door.  Four smaller pieces were cut to act as the hinges then all pieces where glued together.  When this dries, it will be time to make the door handle and bolts out of Green Stuff as I have done previously.

 

 

 

 


 

Painting

Using down watered black acrylic I applied a black base coat to all sides of the diorama using a sponge.  With this technique I am able to apply an even coat across the surfaces, while also able to push the paint into all the crack  and crevasses.  The wooden door was given a base coat of burnt umber for the front with black for the hinges.  The back of the door was painted black to match the outer walls. 

Unless I am creating a double sided diorama I always paint the back black, more especially when using the blue foam board.  This helps prevent any blue seeping through when a light is shown from behind the diorama. 

 


 

Latest work done on my Ruined Church diorama.

Mixing up a grey was I went over the the walls that surround the long windows and the door. Adding a touch of blue to the mix, I then sponged over the remaining walls with the new paint.

 

While is trying, I started working on the accessories for the door. Using Green Stuff to make the bolts, door handle and the bolts for the hinges.

With the paint dry I went over the wall and floor again with a light grey/blue wash using my airbrush.

 

After this had dried I dry brushed GW Longbeard grey over the entire diorama to pick out the edges, the cracks and imperfections of the piece.

 

For door got a watered down wash with GW Rhino hide, retributor armour for the hinges and accessories. A layer of Nuil oil and then Warplock bronze over the Green Stuff made accessories, once dry all it was all edged with Auric Armour Gold then the door was glued into place.

I have also added patches of rubble using scenic ballast scattered across the floor, this now needs some finishing touches and should be completed.

 

 

The back of the diorama was given a final coat of black acrylic drawing this diorama build to conclusion. 

 

 

Wayne’s G.I. Joe terrain and bunker

 

Wayne’s G.I. Joe terrain and bunker

 

I’ve started a new G.I. Joe commission  4 x 600 x 600 terrain tiles with a bunker, which I’ve been asked to style it on the Imperial bunker from Star Wars ROTJ. To get the design right for the bunker I’m going completely back to basics. Drawing out the design to scale before going straight to foam. I had realized with the drawing, it’s smaller than I had wanted. I will have to scale it out by at least 2 inches on either side and increase its height by an inch and half.

I have cut two of the tiles required and for scale I’ve placed Snake Eyes next them.


 After spending time looking at the design, not only am I extending the bunker on either side but using bringing it forward to. Using my original thought as a porch entrance as you can see in the 3D mock up picture (not to scale!).

Now I have the design, next phase will be creating.

The Bunker

 For this phase of the project I will be focusing on the bunker which is built using foam board.  Using 5 mm foam board to create the frame around the tunnel leading into the bunker, behind each of them is two layers of 10 mm foam board.

 

 

For the front wall of the bunker I have carved in grills into either side of the wall, a two step porch roof added. 

After looking at this I decided to add another layer of 5 mm board placed in between the tunnel and front wall, with holes cut out to display grills. This will also act as a frame for the front wall.

While trying to workout the layout and design for the inside of the bunker, I cut two pieces of 10 mm foam board to the height of the front wall and 4 inches deep. These will be the walls to the bunker, then a piece of 5 mm board which will act as the floor to the bunker.

For both side walls, I’ve cut in 11 grills at half an inch thick. Once I cut through the foam, I then scored around each rectangle with a thicker blade, pressed in the top length of each rectangle, punching them in at angle.

Cut out two frames to go around each side wall, both pieces were fitted into the front wall.

The roof was cut along with two foam circles before all the pieces were placed together and sculpted into shape.

The work started with gluing all the external pieces together, sanding them down before attaching each section of the walls together. After each wall had all their parts stuck and formed, I turned my attention to the door of the bunker.

Using a piece of 5mm foam board I cut a cross section and then glued that onto another piece of 5mm board, surrounded it with a boarder. The using 2 pieces of 10mm board to create a runner for door, this was glued to the length of the back of the front wall. The door can slide the full length of the wall.

 

 

Before finishing off the main wall, I turned my attention engraving the insides of the side walls. Drawing inspiration from the 80’s G.I. Joe cartoon and the interiors used for Cobra’s hideouts/bases/lairs, using this type of style to carve in panelling into each wall along with an 80’s style tape recorder.

Work began making the final wall match the decor of the other two walls.  To start with I cut another piece of foam which would fit on the right side.  This stops the door from being able to slide across both sides.  With that piece in place I scored the same style of pattern across both untouched pieces of foam and across the pelmet that runs the length of the wall. 

What is left to be done with the bunker is:
• As detail to the floor.
• The roof circles need the Cobra insignia applying to them.
• Paint and fixing all pieces together.

The final section of this build completed, floor panels have been etched into the foam all the remains is to sand the floor ready to be painted.

 

I have done a little work on the roof to which it now matches style of the bunker, I need to cast a couple of Cobra logo’s which will stuck on top of each of the circular vents.  This can be done after I have started to paint bunker.

 

This weekend I have been busy painting the bunker, first applying a black undercoat to all pieces. Once they were dry, a grey coat was added over the top. A coat of desert sand to border of the side walls, the front wall and front porch. Gun metal grey was used on the door, the dome vents and the wall vents followed with silver dry wash over the wall vents. Unfortunately, the floor started to disintegrate, the exposed foam reacted very badly with the black spray paint. I cut another piece of 10 mm foam, then cut the original scored tiles form the other piece, painted them silver and stuck them down on top of the new piece.

 

On the inside, I painted individual panels with a combination of grey/silver/gun metal grey then a silver dry wash over the top. The more I looked at it the more I was not happy with the look, instead of looking metallic the inside look was dull and grey.

 

Taking my airbrush I gave all the walls a gold wash after going over some of the tiles and made the colours bolder. The gold wash lightened up the walls, giving it the 80’s cartoon feel I was looking for.

 

With all the pieces painted and dry, it was time to glue all pieces together before doing the final touches to the bunker.

 

Using my airbrush I sprayed a dark grey wash over the floor and the bottom half of the bunker to weather it.

While this was drying, I took the mould I had made for the Cobra Stun hubcaps and cast two more, once dried I painted them in dark gunmetal grey and red for the Cobra logo. These were then glued to the dome vents on top of the roof.

With the bunker complete I can now start on the four 600 x 600 tiles.

Helipad

Before I start work on the terrain tiles, I wanted to add a helicopter pad which could be added to one of the tiles.  Made from two pieces of 10 mm foam board, the bottom rectangle piece with one inch squares carved across the surface. the top circle nine inch diameter across with one diameter boarder carved into it, along with a “H”.  Both pieces glued together, with a grey base coat which was built up with grey/silver coat, silver for the top ring, green surrounding the “H” and white for the “H”.

 

 

Terrain Tiles

The original commission was to create four 600 x 600 squares, with the bunker and helipad done I can spend time building these.  An idea is to have a border going a round two of the four edges, this way the tiles could be rearranged to suite the users needs.  At present only two of the four are cut with borders drawn into them to see how they would look and with the bunker and helipad loosely added to them before a layer of sand is added to each.

I’ve cut the other two terrain tiles and been in talks with my client on how he wants them set up. We’ve agreed that the bottom two tiles will have a sand texture across 3/4 of them while a 8″ width road runs across them. The helipad will be glued into pace and surrounded by sand, while the bunker will not be glued (due to shipping) but also will be sat on sand. A two inch border runs along the edges of two sides of each tile.

The strips were cut which are to be used as borders on two edges of each tile, each strip has a two inch width. I decided to make one set overhang and the other cut shorts by half an inch, this makes them interlink. and interchange with one another.

Two inch squares where cut into the border, then the sides were sanded and the edges of the borders softened.

I took two pieces of 5 mm foam board for the road, I took my steam cleaner and used it to remove the top card layer.  When top layer had been removed, they were glued onto the tiles and a black base coat was applied.  Once it was dry I airbrushed a light grey coat evenly over both boards, I also added a couple of pot holes.

I began painting the borders of each tile with a light grey, using a sponge to dab the paint on. Doing this I was ale to get a nice even coat all the way around, then using a brush to to paint the sides.

The road, I have added a couple more pot holes and cracks in the tarmac, being a dessert road and with today’s standard of roads it needs imperfections.  I then used to the sponge and lightly dabbed paint across the road and then gently blended it all in to lighten the tarmac. Where I will use my airbrush to then weather it.

 

Mixing sand with PVA glue and water, the mixture was spread evenly over the tiles.  The first tiles done were the helicopter pad and one of the road tiles.  With the addition of the sand, it has trebled the weight of each tile.

After 48 hours the first two tiles are dry that applying sand to the other two tiles could begin. Due to the weight of the sand, I have had to add another piece of 600 x 600 5 mm foam board to each of the four tiles to help strengthen them.

I have embedded a piece of foam board onto the tile which the bunker will be housed, it is then surrounded by sand giving the bunker a foundation to sit on.

Another couple of sand/water/PVA mixtures were made and spread evenly over the two remaining tiles.  Once they are dry I can start doing the final touches:

  • Paint touches to the road
  • A black border edges on each tile.

 

 

Before I started working on the final touches, I had to take some test pictures for my client on what he could do with his diorama and the overall size of it. You have to agree it is very impressive.

 
 

After seeing all the tiles put together there were some final paint touch ups to hide any exposed foam board.  A black boarder around the white foam board base, and a second coat of grey on the two borders of each tiles.  For the road and sand areas, I touched them up using a sandy brown hiding any exposed blue foam and to weather road.

  

The barriers

The final part of this commission build is to create eight barriers for my client to position where ever he would want them.  The barriers are made from 10 mm foam board, each one cut to 5 inch in length and 2 inch high (not including the base).  The base of each I have gone a quarter of an inch in, using a sharp blade I have cut diagonally across both sides to create a ramp (mind your fingers!)

h the 5 x 2″ blocks, I have scored them on both sides at 2.5″ from top to bottom, making them look like they are two slabs joined together.  In the centre of each slab a rectangular hole has been pressed in on either side.

With all eight of the barriers made I gave the one face of three of them battle damage, applying bullet holes and crack in the concrete.  This giving my client variation when photographing his figures on his diorama.  With the changes made it was time to apply paint to them.  A light grey base coat was applied first and then weathered using my airbrush.

The completed Diorama

With barriers dry, it was finally time to put the completed model together and fill it with Cobra action figures and vehicles to show my client exactly what he has bought and some of the potential it has for him.

 you will agree with me he will have hours of fun setting up his figures and taking plenty of pictures.

 

The final pictures of this completed commission diorama.

 
 

 

Commissioned Building

Commissioned Building

After taking a couple of weeks off from Comic Con it’s time to start back up again and what a project to start off with. My sister contacted recently to tell me that my 7 year old nephew has started to get into Spider-Man and wondered if I could build him a play-set for him for Christmas (yes I said that horrible word!).  I decided to construct a building for 6” figures, which will be double sided, with roof for him to play with.  By the time I am done with this, he is going to love it!  To start with, I am using insulation foam board for the overall construction.

 

 

I started preparing the external brick work. Drawing out each one on the boards surface, making them a half an inch in height and one inch in length, before taking a pointed tool to scored them onto the board. After all three external wall were marked, the window and doors were cut out.

I completed marking out the internal brick work to match the external. Then cut a single piece of foam board to be the foundation of the raised ground floor, which will be accomplished using bolsa wood for the floor.

Because I’m an awesome uncle I even went out and purchased a Spider-Man Homecoming figure which will accompany this set.

I got on with developing the ground the floor, using a bolsa wood block strips for the beams with flat sheets laid on top, then made it look like floor boards. Over the weekend I will be nailing the together, use a wire brush to add wood lines and remove any splinters then add 4 beams on each corner to which I will be putting the next floor on. To tidy up the back so my nephew doesn’t get underneath floor I have cut a strip of foam board.

 

Started creating the first floor by sticking bolsa wood onto a sheet of foam board. Four beams at 7.1 inch tall, to which where glued to the each corner of the ground floor and then nailed down. Afterwards ground floor was then glued and nailed onto the three foundation beams. The first floor was then glued and nailed into position.
Next I will start the roof before any painting and gluing all pieces into place.

 

I have finally managed to get the roof on, its all held together with masking tape but its on!  Using insulation board, I cut various lengths to build up the rooftop.  My nephew is only 7  so I have tried to design this with as much access and freedom for him, that any boy needs for a play-set.

 

Next I need to build the fire escape, front and side steps and then sidewalk.  Not forgetting the glue and paint!

 

I started working on the fire escape. Using bolsa wood for the base of the platform, then cutting strips of bamboo cans of 3.5” and placing them equal spacing along the platform. Once in place I cut two strips of bolsa wood to act as a railing, making sure the wholes where lined up and slotted the bamboo bars into the railings.

As you can see it slots into place perfectly. I now need to add a couple of braces under the platform to brace it against the wall, sand it down and glue all the pieces into place.

 

 

I’ve had a busy/productive day with Harry’s building. I woke up at 6 am wanting to make the front and side steps (as you do on the weekend!)

This then led to sander, rotary tool and the glue gun being brought out, all edges sanded and tidied up. The wooden floors and fire escape was sanded, glued together, braces attached to the underneath of the fire escape.

I disassembled the roof, using hot glue all pieces were put back into place and sanded as I went along. This was followed up with building been glued together and the roof being glued into place. While I attaching the walls together, I decided to swap over the side walls, this made the fire escape pointing the over way with ladder rear facing.

What is left to be done, create a side walk to surround the building and then apply paint to it.

 

 

First coat of paint applied. Black for the fire escape, light grey for the roof and a grey/burnt umber mix for the bricks.

I completed the outside and inside the ground floor it by the then it was late last night and I’d run out of the made up paint and was too tired to do the 1st floor. The outer steps I made up a medium grey and for the surrounding border.

This morning I had to quickly spray the fire escape because the paint I had used had been absorbed into the wood.

2nd coat needs applying then numerous washes to weather the exterior of the building. The floors need painting and a pavement still needs to be done.

 

Last night was time to work on the pavement surrounding this building. Cutting out a piece of foam board, marking out where the building will sit on board. I marked out the curb and pavement slabs which run across the front of the building. Either side of the building I want it to look like a concrete alleyways.
Still need to add second coats of paint to building and paint the pavement.

Over the weekend, I have applied a second coat of paint to the exterior and interior. This was quickly followed by a coat of dark burnt umber for the wood work, both floors and supports.
For the roof, I cut a piece of black foam board, removed the top layer of card and glued it to top of the roof. Texture of the black foam board, painted black works as both texture for the roof and another layer to child proof the set.
With the pavement I sprayed a coat of white, then while wet I sprayed a coat of black paint. Another coat of grey is needed to cover the blacker areas.

 

 

 

I found the time the other day to grab a paint brush and set to work on the pavement. Using a grey mix I went over the pavement slabs to even them out. Adding a touch of blue to grey paint and using a thin brush, I went around each slab and crack.
While this was drying I did the same to cracks on the roof. A grey mixture was then used over the black and then around the side doors and window frame.

I mixed up burnt umber and red and applied that to the outer and interior walls, I was not fond of the brown brick effect it currently had.
Once it’s dry, I need to touch up the paint in places, work on the front entrance. I may add a couple of doors to it for effect but this is going to be a play set for my 7 year old nephew.

 

I couldn’t resist doing a couple of action shots to test out Harry’s play set.

Taking a small paint brush and mix of watered down burnt umber and black acrylic, I went round each brick and crack on the external walls. Then washed over the interior to darken the walls and cover up ant foam still showing. This took a couple of hours so now I just need to to paint the door frames and touch up any smudges.

Finishing touches complete, this morning I went round out tidied up any paint run off, painted the door frames and the concrete border running the base of the building.

 

Now that it has been completed, I placed it next to my first building. I know I built it for my nephews Spider-Man but Batman got in there first. Followed by TV’s The Flash, Flash 2 and Zoom. I did finish off letting Spider-Man try out this play set for him. 

I will be putting up my usual finishing photos up tomorrow evening.

I hope you have enjoyed watching the development of this project as I have creating it.

I am pleased to present to you the final pictures of my nephews Christmas present, before I wrap it up for him.
I added a few extra character pictures for your enjoyment. Enjoy!