Sector Imperials Basilica
Containers, crates and barrels done I’ve only got the small cannons that come with each container to finish.
The receipts are:
Base- Mephistor Red
Shade- Agrax Earth shade
Dry brush- Evil Sunz Scarlet
Base- Maccrage blue
Shade- Agrax earthhade
Dry brush- Necron Compound
Base- Death Guard Green
Shade- Agrax Earth shade
Dry brush- Caliban Green
Dry brush- Necron Compound
Shade- Nuln oil
Dry brush- Stormhost silver
Base- Retributor Armour
Shade- Reikland Fleshshade
Edge- Liberator Gold
I decided I wanted a container worthy of the Death Guard, one that is writhe with disease and decay.
With the gun turret painted and in place, the scene can be set for the battle to take place between the forces of good and evil!
I’ve been commissioned to build a sewer diorama to accommodate his Marvel Legends 6″ figures.
With this diorama build I will be constructing it out of foam insulation board using widths 5 mm and 10 mm. For the overall base I am using 10 mm foam board 25″ width by 16″ depth. Two walkways on either side running the length of the diorama, one side with the width of 4″ and the opposite 3″ width. A central wall at one end with a semi circle cut out to act as a grate fitted between the two walkways with a couple of little walls either side.
For the center I am thinking of using a couple of sheets of ripple water purchased from Greenstuffworld, it’s the same sheet’s I used for G.I. JOE Tiger Force Outpost diorama. I have some left over from my Stargate diorama which I have used to test.
With the basic form there I started to build upon the structure, building two walls and a second layer for both walkways. With these parts cut it is time to mark up the brick work.
I cut a crescent a half an inch width to go over the central column, I then marked on the brick work, each brick is 2″ x 1″. Once completed I took an etching tool a scored out each brick and crack. After completing the walls and central column I repeated the process on the two walkways.
I made a trench running the width of the 4″ walkway and then taking my rotary I cut off a section of piping to use as a drain pipe coming out of the wall above the trench. I then used 5 straws, cutting them down in length to use as bars from the drain.
Water sheets have arrived, I’ve loosely put them into place and now toying with the idea of using some blue foam board as a base.
At the request of my client, I built a third a wall but this one containing a circle entrance. This wall running the in parallel to other long wall, the circle cut is about 5″ diameter. I scored in the brick work to match up with the rest of diorama. I cut a ring of foam as a frame for this entrance etching stone work to it.
Magnetic strip has been used to attach the walls to the floor.
Using my rotary tool I sanded the inside of the round doorway, tidied up the edges of the overall piece. To attach the central column to the back wall using small magnets placed along the edges and married to the magnets on the back wall. I purchased a small ladder made from bolsa wood, I thought it would be ideal for this piece.
With the build completed, it is time to start painting. The base coat for the walls and floor were applied using a watered done mixture of white/black and touch of blue, applied using a sponge. The base I used watered down mixture of blue/white, once this had dried I added Burnt Umber into the mix and dabbed into the area where the water runs trough the center.
With the base coats dry, sponged over the walls with a water downed burnt umber, dabbing the paint all over. Adding a little yellow to the watered down burnt umber I repeated the process once the walls had dried. The bars were painted with Games Workshops Runefang steel, shaded with Nuln Oil.
I turned my attention to the water, using Games Workshops Nurgle’s Rot (commonly known as snot in pot) painted ripples onto the board. I laid the water sheet on top and glued it into place. I dry brushed screaming skull over the water sheets highlighting the ripples.
All some brick work was dry brushed using Games Workshops Longbeard Grey, emphasizing all the cracks and edges of the bricks. The waste pipe and the ladder had a coat of Games Workshops Leadbelcher, shaded with Nuln Oil and highlighted with Stormhost Silver.
A couple of days ago I filled the small trench with PVA glue, when it dried I had created film over the trench which meant I could then apply more PVA glue over the top. The thickness of the dried glue, gave the impression of fluid running the length of the trench, I painted over it using Games Workshops Nurgle’s rot. I poured PVA into the small waste pipe above the trench, painting it again with Nurgle’s rot once it had dried. I proceeded to apply the paint also to areas on both walkways and the small waste pipe.
There are some final little touches to be done and then this will be completed.
This March, I exhibited my works again at Bradford Unleashed 3rd March 2019. It’s the second year I have attended as a trader , needless to say it was a great day and thoroughly enjoyed by all, click here to see pictures from that day. I asked Peter Davidson autograph my Tardis diorama too!
If you look to attended and want to get tickets, details are below.
Or you can visit their website and purchase your tickets there.
I have commissioned to build a scene from the recent Blade Runner 2049 film, I opted to go for the final scene where the two Blade Runners approach the steps leading into the building where Decker’s daughter is placed.
With this diorama build I will be constructing it out of foam insulation board using widths 5 mm and 10 mm. For the overall base I am using 10 mm foam board 23″ width by 10″ depth. Each of the steps are 16″ width by a decreasing inch depth for every step.
I cut four pieces of 10 mm foam board, which were used for the sides of the steps. I cut another piece of 10 mm board, this is used for the back wall behind the steps.
All the pieces where sanded down and glued together. The next step is make the banisters for the steps.
Before I start work on the banisters I filled in some of the imperfections of the build using Green Stuff.
To create the banisters I cut thin 0.25 of an inch width foam board strips to run up the center of each banister and along the wall at the top of the each. I then cut six small posts of foam then using the hot end of my glue gun,
(WARNING wear protective gloves in case you burn your fingers!)
to burn two holes, equal distance apart in the foam to fit the banister rails through. Then taking two straws of equal length, adding a drop of hot glue inside one end of each straw, placing a cocktail stick in between and push the glued end together. Repeat this process to make the second handrail of the same length. Glued the first post at the bottom of the banister, another one at the top of the slope and then slide the hand rails through the holes. I took a third post, glued the end of the railings to the post and then glued the post to the top of the banister. I then glued the last two posts of either end of the small then glued two straws into place.
I repeated the same process with the opposite side hand rails, thus completing this diorama build. Next step is to start painting this.
A base acrylic coat of paint made up from white, black and a touch of burnt umber mixed with water was applied with a sponge coating the entire model.
Second base coat added, once this is dry I can start layering this.
With the base coat dried, I could start weathering this piece using my airbrush. Using a fine spray I went over all the edges with a dark brown, with that dry I gently sprayed over the entire model.
Using Games Workshop’s Longbearbeard Grey, I dry brushed the all stone work to pick out the detail
At the request of my client, I painted the hand rails white. When they are dried I will weather down and dry brush them using GW’s Necron compound.
I weathered the handrails with a dark brown wash using my airbrush, once that had dried I dry brushed both handrails using GW’s Necron compound.
With this diorama completed here are my final pictures. Sorry I do not own any Blade Runner figures, I’ve had to substitute them for 1966 Batman, which works just as well I think.