Castle Rm3

Castle Room 3

With Bradford Unleashed around the corner, I need to take a couple of original pieces. To start with I’m going to put together another MOTU based castle room. It will be a cross between the two I’ve made previously.

 

 

Building the scene

 

 

Marked out the brick work.

 

Drawing on inspiration from my last Grayskull room I did. I cut a couple of arches onto a piece of 6 mm foam board, which lay over the bricks of the back wall.

 

I cut a window into the smaller wall and using vintage He-Ro and Club Grayskull Tung Lashor as models (due to their different heights) to gauge how big the window should be to fit both sizes of figures.

With that done, the brick work was scored out using three different pottery tools, a single edge to make the initial score, diamond to cut the groove between the brick edges and finally a ball tip to run between the brick.

 

The edges where sanded along with the inside of the window and the arches before using PVA glue to to stick the arches over the back wall.

Taking inspiration again from Mattel vintage Castle Grayskull play-set, I scored out the brickwork around the window like I did with my previously. Using smaller pieces of foam to cut out decoration for both interior and exterior window wall.

 

I had a skull cast from my last Grayskull build, so I have placed that on the back wall in between the arches.

 

Painting the scene

Black under coat done, unfortunately the spray paint ate part of the foam but luckily it worked out well.

 



 

I base coated with a light grey, then airbrushed turquoise over the inner walls. For the exterior I added green to grey mixture, when this had dried added more green mixture and gave it another coat.

 

 

The look I’m going for is Filmation internally and Mattel colour scheme for the exterior.

 

 

I airbrushed olive green over the exterior wall. While this was drying I started edging the floor with Games Workshops Calgar Blue, I then started edging the gargoyle head.

Now the big question on my mind, do I use vintage MOTU weapons or Classic?

 

 

 

Finished edging the interior walls with Games Workshops Calgar Blue and then I dry brushed over all three surfaces with Baharroth Blue.

 

For the exterior wall, I went in between the rocks with watered down Abaddon black. I dry brushed over the wall with Elysian Green. The window ledge was base coated with Burnt Umber, layered with Gorthor Brown and edged with Rhinox Hide.


 

Weapons Casting

Using the molds of vintage MOTU weapons I made for a previous Grayskull build. I have used a two part resin to cast the weapons. After 20 minutes or so, I have gently peeled the casts out of molds and started to cut away the excess resin.

 

Once they have fully cured, each weapon has been gently sanded down. I have roughly placed the weapons I want to use on walls of the diorama. They are now ready to be painted and then permanently fixed onto the walls.

 

Finished painting the weapons. I initially gave them an under coat of black, then a coat of silver. Once dry I shaded them with Games Workshops Nuln Oil and then edged with Stormhost Silver.

A few experimental shots using my vintage and Super7 vintage style figures

 

 

Final Pictures

 

 

 

Castle Grayskull Weapons Room

Castle Grayskull Weapons Room

Starting a new commission piece, this will be a weapons room within Castle Grayskull, scaled to Mattels 80’s He-man and the Masters of the Universe range.

This piece will be similar to one I built for myself but longer to accommodate more figures and even Battle Cat as demonstrated.

 

Building the scene

This piece is made from foam insulation board, the base, walls and the steps I have used 10 mm foam board.

After speaking with my client, 20″was too long to for into his deltof. I’ve taken 6″ off the base and back wall.

 

The aim is to try and make this as close to the Filmation version of the 80’s, one of the things I have found difficult is trying to replicate the floor. After going on a MOTU DVD binge I settled on a floor pattern I saw of the turret floor with the Talon Fighter parked on it. 

Stone slabs scored, time to start on the walls.

Brick work and windows cut and scored into the foam.

 

 

Drawing upon inspiration from the 80’s MOTU cartoon for the walls, cutting a piece of 6mm foam to create alcoves for the long wall. With alcoves cut and sanded, the sheet is then glued using PVA glue on too of the first sheet. Once this is dry, I will start adding the detail.

 

 

 

 

 


 
The Sorceress’s chambers taken from the classic cartoon.

I have framed the window to add some detail to this wall. Sanding down two strips of 10 mm boars, rounding them off to look like pillars reaching up the roof. Adding another strip for the length of the other wall like a pelmet and then adding the usual cracks to the stone wall.

 

 

A couple of little details to add before painting and then casting vintage MOTU weapons which will be hung on the walls.

Casting decorations

Putting the foam board aside for a minute, my focus of today was casting some decorations before I started painting the interior.

Using Blustuff to make half molds of a handful of vintage MOTU weapons and a head of 200x Slime Pit skeleton monster (see last picture). I have created the wall decorations, the heads will be painted the same colour as the walls but weapons will be painted separately.

 

I’ve casted another small axe and a mace, when the painting is complete will be fixed to walls along with the rest of the weapons.

 

I finished this build off by making an exterior wall, scoring brick work and adding detail to around the window.

 

 

Painting

First base coat has been applied.  I have used chalkboard black spray paint which I have found is excellent for base coating plastic and resin, also it doesn’t eat foam board as other spray paint can.

 

A base coat was applied to the exterior and a second coat to the interior.

 

The weapons and shield where painted with Games Workshops Leadbelcher, shaded with Games Workshops Nuln Oil and then dry brushed with Games Workshops Stormhost Silver.

 

First layer of grey added using a roller with a sponge head.

 

Adding green and blue to grey mix from this morning, the next layer will be blue to match alongside the 80’s cartoon.

To get this closer to the Filmation version of Grayskull I’ve gone over the interior walls using a dark green mixed with the grey.

 

With the paint dry, this is what it looks like so far.

 

Finally worked out the colour scheme to match the Filmation cartoon. After airbrushing a layer of turquoise, when it had dried a layer of blue and then another lighter blue. I edged it using Games Workshop’s Calgar blue and then dry brushed with Games Workshops Baharroth Blue.

 

The external wall a dark green coat was airbrushed on. When dry olive green was airbrushed into the centre of each brick. Each brick was edged with GW Caliban Green, which was worked into the brick to blend with olive green. I finished by dry brushing GW Ogryn Camo over all the brickwork.

 

The wood using Games Workshop’s Rhino Hide and then edged with Gorthor Brown.

 

 

Final Pictures

 

 


 

Eternia Ruin

Eternia Ruin

Keeping with the He-Man and the Masters of the Universe theme, I’ve put together another small landscape diorama drawing inspiration from the old Filmation cartoon series back in 1983.

Build

This build I wanted to be a simple landscape diorama, I cut a piece of 10 mm foam board to act as the base.  Then another piece of 10 mm which will be a broken wall, I’ve added three tabs to the bottom of the all which allow it to be allowed to slotted into the base.

Eternia in the 80’s cartoon, wood land area had a lot of huge, twisty trees of all sizes.  To make one of these for the size of this piece, I have taken a cardboard tube and wrapped it up in tin foil with enough excess to twist to a point.  I rolled up two more lengths of tin foils and wrapped them around the trunk like twisted branches.  This will be positioned behind the wall.

 

Build upon this basic design, I added a horizontal wall behind the first wall, a couple of tin foil boulders into the foreground.

 

 

 

I was looking at the walls and realised one layer of 10 mm was not enough, I cut another piece the same size as the long wall. Glued them together and then sanded it down, I will do the same with vertical wall this evening.

 The vertical wall, I added another 10 mm layer of foam board making it the same width as the horizontal wall.  Using the round sander on my rotary tool to weather both walls, lightly touching the wall faces with side of the spinning sander.

I laid a piece of 6 mm foam board on the base in front of the horizontal wall, marking out 2″ x 2″ slabs before setting to them with pottery tools, scoring imperfections into the slabs.

 

 

Turning the attention to tree and the boulders, I watered down filler and coated the mixture over the objects.  I poured the rest of the filler down the left side of the base and around the back.  I inserted the tree into the filler covered the damp filler with sand.